How To Taxidermy A Fish: Complete Tutorial

Can you taxidermy a fish at home? Yes, you absolutely can taxidermy a fish at home with the right supplies and a patient approach. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the entire process, from preparing your specimen to the final fish display. Taxidermy is a rewarding art form that allows you to preserve memories and create stunning pieces for your home or office. We’ll cover everything from fish preservation to fish mounting, ensuring you have the knowledge to achieve a professional-looking result.

Gathering Your Taxidermy Supplies

Before you begin, it’s crucial to gather all the necessary taxidermy supplies. Having everything ready will make the process smoother and prevent interruptions.

Here’s a list of essential items:

Fish Specimen: A freshly caught fish is best. The sooner you can start the process after catching, the better the results will be.
Sharp Knives: A good filleting knife and a smaller, sharper detail knife are essential for precise cuts.
Scalpel: For fine detailing and working with delicate areas.
Gloves: Nitrile or latex gloves to protect your hands from chemicals and bacteria.
Apron or Old Clothes: This process can get messy.
Buckets or Pans: For washing and holding your specimen.
Towels: Lots of them for drying.
Borax: A common laundry booster, used for drying and preserving the skin.
Taxidermy Paste or Clay: For sculpting the body and filling in details.
Wire Brush or Stiff Brush: To remove any remaining flesh or debris.
Cardboard or Newspaper: For lining your work surface.
Reference Photos: High-quality photos of the live fish from multiple angles are vital for accurate coloring and posing.
Glass Eyes: Specifically designed for taxidermy fish.
Fin Varnish or Sealer: To protect the delicate fins.
Adhesive: A strong, flexible glue for attaching fins and eyes.
Filling Material: Wood filler, cotton batting, or specialized taxidermy filler.
Wooden Rod or Dowel: To support the body.
Form (Optional but Recommended): A pre-made fish form can simplify the mounting process.
Finishing Sprays/Paints: For restoring natural colors.

The Importance of Preserving Fish Quickly

The key to successful fish preservation lies in acting fast. The longer a fish remains out of water, the more its scales loosen, its colors fade, and its tissues begin to degrade.

Immediate Steps After Catching

Handle with Care: Avoid touching the fish with rough hands or abrasive surfaces, as this can damage scales and slime coat.
Measure and Photograph: Before anything else, measure your fish accurately and take plenty of photos. Get shots from both sides, the top, and close-ups of fins and head details. These reference images are invaluable for recreating the fish’s natural appearance during fish mounting.
Keep it Cool: Place the fish in a cooler with ice immediately. This slows down decomposition and helps retain color. Do not let the fish sit directly in meltwater, as this can leach colors and damage the skin. Use a plastic bag or container to keep the fish dry within the cooler.

Step-by-Step Guide to Fish Skinning

Fish skinning is a critical step that requires precision and patience. The goal is to remove the skin with as much of the original color and scale structure intact as possible.

H3: Preparing Your Workspace

Lay down cardboard or newspaper to protect your work surface.
Ensure good lighting.
Have your sharp knives and other tools within easy reach.
Wear your gloves and apron.

H3: The Skinning Process

Initial Incision:
- Lay the fish on its side.
- Make a shallow incision along the lateral line, starting from the gill cover to the base of the tail. The lateral line is a sensory organ that runs along the side of the fish. You can usually see it as a faint line or a series of dots.
- Be careful not to cut too deep, as you want to avoid damaging the skin or scales.
Working Around the Head:
- Carefully peel back the skin from the incision.
- Use your scalpel or detail knife to loosen the skin around the head, working under the gill cover and around the mouth.
- Cut the skin free from the cranial bones. This area can be tricky, so go slowly.
Separating Skin from Flesh:
- Gently pull the skin away from the body.
- Use your knife to scrape the flesh from the underside of the skin. Work in sections, pulling the skin and scraping away the meat.
- Pay close attention to the areas where fins attach, as the skin can be thinner and more prone to tearing.
Removing the Backbone:
- Once you have skinned about half of the fish, you can carefully separate the body cavity.
- Cut along the dorsal (top) and ventral (bottom) edges of the backbone.
- The backbone, along with the rib cage and internal organs, can now be removed as a single unit.
- Be mindful of the fins, especially the pectoral and pelvic fins, which are still attached to the skin. You may need to cut them free from the body.
Dealing with the Tail and Fins:
- The tail section can be tricky. You might need to cut through the tail bone to remove the body while keeping the tail fin intact.
- For the dorsal (top) and anal (bottom) fins, carefully cut along their base where they meet the body.
- Pectoral and pelvic fins are usually attached to the skin on the sides.
Final Skinning:
- Continue pulling the skin down the rest of the body, scraping away any remaining flesh or fat.
- Use your wire brush to gently clean the inside of the skin, removing any lingering tissue.
- For the fins, you’ll need to remove the supporting rays from the flesh side. This involves carefully scraping the flesh away from the fin rays.

Cleaning and Preserving the Skin

After skinning, the fish skinning process isn’t quite done. The skin needs thorough cleaning and preserving to prevent decay and prepare it for mounting.

H3: Cleaning the Skin

Rinsing: Rinse the skin gently in cold water to remove any blood or remaining flesh.
Flesh Removal: Use your scalpel and wire brush to meticulously scrape away all traces of flesh, fat, and membrane from the inside of the skin. This is a crucial step for long-term fish preservation. Any remaining tissue can rot and cause the finished mount to deteriorate.
Scale Treatment: Be gentle with the scales. You can use a soft brush or even your fingers to remove debris. Avoid anything that might pry scales loose.

H3: The Salting and Borax Process

Salting (Optional but Recommended): Some taxidermists prefer to salt the skin first. Cover the inside of the skin completely with non-iodized salt. This draws out moisture and helps preserve the skin. Leave it for 24-48 hours, then scrape off the salt and brush the skin clean.
Borax Treatment:
- Generously coat the inside of the skin with Borax powder.
- Rub the Borax into every crevice, ensuring complete coverage. Borax acts as a drying agent and disinfectant.
- You can also mix Borax with a bit of filler like sawdust or cornmeal to help absorb more moisture.
- Place the Borax-coated skin in a plastic bag or container and leave it in a cool, dry place for at least a week, or until it feels dry and somewhat stiff. You may need to turn it periodically to ensure even drying.

Rehydrating and Tanning the Skin

The Borax process dries the skin out, making it brittle. To make it pliable and durable for mounting, it needs to be rehydrated and tanned. Fish tanning is an essential step for a professional finish.

H3: Rehydrating the Skin

After the Borax drying period, gently brush off excess Borax.
Submerge the skin in a bucket of lukewarm water.
Let it soak for a few hours, changing the water if it becomes cloudy. The skin will begin to soften and become pliable.

H3: The Tanning Process

There are several tanning methods. A common and effective method for fish involves using commercial tan solutions.

Commercial Tan Solutions: Purchase a fish tanning solution from a taxidermy supply store. These solutions are specifically formulated to preserve fish skin.
Preparation: Follow the instructions on the tanning solution carefully. Typically, you’ll need to mix the solution according to the manufacturer’s directions.
Soaking: Submerge the rehydrated fish skin in the tanning solution. Ensure the entire skin is covered.
Time: The soaking time varies depending on the product and the type of fish. It can range from a few hours to several days. Stir the solution occasionally and check the skin’s pliability.
Rinsing and Neutralizing: Once tanned, rinse the skin thoroughly in clean water. Some tanning solutions require a neutralizing step, so check the product instructions.

Mounting the Fish: Bringing it to Life

Now comes the exciting part: fish mounting! This is where you recreate the fish’s form and pose.

H3: Creating or Selecting a Form

Pre-made Forms: These are sculpted to mimic the shape of different fish species and sizes. You’ll need to select a form that closely matches the dimensions of your fish. You may need to trim or adjust it.
Custom Forms: For unique poses or species, you can sculpt your own form using insulating foam or clay over a wooden dowel. This requires a good understanding of fish anatomy.

H3: Fitting the Skin to the Form

Positioning: Place the tanned skin over the form. Ensure the fins are positioned correctly and the skin is aligned naturally.
Securing: Use adhesive to attach the skin to the form. Start by gluing the belly and dorsal edges.
Fin Placement: Carefully tuck the fins into their natural positions. You might need to use small amounts of adhesive to hold them in place. Use pins or clips to secure fins while the adhesive dries.
Filling Gaps: Use taxidermy paste or filler to fill any gaps between the skin and the form, especially around the head and tail. This ensures a smooth, natural appearance.
Sculpting: Use clay or filler to build out areas that might have lost volume during the skinning process, like the cheeks or belly. Refer to your reference photos constantly.

H3: Adding the Eyes

Eye Sockets: Clean out the eye sockets on the form and the skin.
Fitting: Select glass eyes that match the size and color of the original fish.
Adhesive: Apply a strong adhesive to the back of the eye and carefully place it in the socket.
Positioning: Ensure the eyes are positioned naturally, looking straight ahead or in the direction you intend the fish to face. Use a bit of clay or filler to secure the eye and create a natural transition from the eye to the surrounding skin.

Finishing Touches: Painting and Sealing

Fish mounting techniques are not complete without meticulous finishing. Painting and sealing are crucial for a lifelike appearance and long-term preservation.

H3: Restoring Color

Reference Photos: This is where your initial photographs are invaluable.
Paints: Use airbrush paints or acrylics specifically designed for taxidermy. They are flexible and won’t crack.
Layering: Apply colors in thin layers, building up the natural patterns and shades of the fish. Start with base colors and then add subtle details like stripes, spots, and fins.
Gloss and Shine: The slime coat on a live fish gives it a particular sheen. You can replicate this with specialized gloss sprays or varnishes. Apply sparingly to avoid an unnatural look.

H3: Sealing the Fins

Fin Varnish: Delicate fins can be prone to damage. Apply a thin coat of fin varnish or a clear sealant to protect them and give them a natural appearance.

H3: Final Touches

Clean Up: Gently clean away any excess adhesive or paint.
Drying: Allow the mount to dry completely in a dust-free environment.

Fish Display Ideas and Mounting

Once your fish taxidermy is complete, you’ll want to showcase it. Proper fish display enhances the artwork and protects it.

H3: Mounting Options

Wall Mounts: The most common type of display. You can mount the fish directly to a wooden plaque or a specially designed habitat base.
Driftwood: Mounting a fish on a piece of natural driftwood can create a very appealing, naturalistic display.
Habitat Bases: These can include artificial plants, rocks, or other elements that mimic the fish’s natural environment.

H3: Preparing for Display

Cleaning: Ensure the mount is completely dry and free of dust.
Hanging Hardware: Attach appropriate hanging hardware to the back of the plaque or base.

H3: Considerations for Display

Location: Choose a location that is out of direct sunlight, which can fade colors over time. Avoid areas with high humidity or extreme temperature fluctuations.
Protection: Consider a protective acrylic case for very valuable or delicate mounts.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: How long does it take to taxidermy a fish?

The time it takes to taxidermy a fish can vary greatly depending on the size of the fish, the method used, and your experience level. Generally, from skinning to final finishing, it can take anywhere from a few days to several weeks. The drying and tanning processes are the most time-consuming.

Q2: Can I taxidermy a fish that is more than a day old?

While it’s always best to start with a fresh specimen, you can still taxidermy a fish that is a day or two old, provided it has been kept properly chilled and hasn’t begun to spoil. The quality of the skin and the retention of color will be better if you start sooner.

Q3: What is the most important part of fish taxidermy?

Accurate fish preservation and meticulous cleaning of the skin are arguably the most critical steps. If the skin is not properly cleaned of all flesh and fat, it will rot, and the entire mount will be ruined. Referencing live photos for fish anatomy and color is also paramount for a realistic outcome.

Q4: What is the difference between fish preservation and fish mounting?

Fish preservation refers to the steps taken to stop the decomposition of the fish specimen and prepare the skin for long-term storage and mounting. This includes skinning, cleaning, and tanning. Fish mounting is the process of taking the preserved skin and recreating the fish’s form using a form, clay, and other materials to create a lifelike replica for display.

Q5: Where can I buy taxidermy supplies?

You can purchase taxidermy supplies from specialized taxidermy supply stores, both online and in some physical locations. Many online retailers offer a wide range of products specifically for taxidermists, including forms, eyes, paints, tanning solutions, and tools.

This comprehensive tutorial aims to equip you with the knowledge to successfully taxidermy a fish. Remember that practice makes perfect, and your first few attempts may not be flawless, but with patience and attention to detail, you’ll achieve beautiful fish display pieces.