Imagine this: You stand in warm, clear saltwater. A ghostly shape flashes over the sandy bottom. It’s a Bonefish, the “Silver Ghost,” and it’s heading right for your fly! Getting that fish to strike, however, can feel like magic. So, what makes that tiny piece of thread and feather so important?
Choosing the perfect Bonefish fly feels overwhelming. Should you use a crab pattern or a shrimp imitation? Does color really matter when the water is this bright? Many anglers waste precious casting time worrying about their presentation instead of actually fishing. A wrong choice often means watching that prized Bonefish swim away untouched.
This guide cuts through the confusion. We will break down the essential Bonefish flies that truly work. You will learn which patterns mimic natural food sources and why certain weights are necessary for different conditions. By the end, you will pack your fly box with confidence, knowing you have the right tools for success.
Top Bonefish Flies Recommendations
- Mustad Signature Duratin Fly Hooks
- Monofilament Weed Guard
- Premium Materials
- Hand Tied by Professionals
- Mustad Duratin Hooks
- Monofilament Weed Guard
- Premium Materials
- Hand Tied by Professionals
- Perfect sinking crab imitation for Permit, Bonefish & Redfish
- Hand tied with premium materials
- Tied on Mustad Duratin Saltwater Hooks
- Perfect sinking crab imitation for Permit, Bonefish & Redfish
- Hand tied with premium materials
- Tied on Mustad Duratin Saltwater Hooks
- SIGNATURE BONEFISH ASSORTMENT: Some bonefish fisheries are more technical than others, which is why it is good to have flies on hand that the fish have likely never seen before. Add this to your Classical Bonefish assortment as insurance.
- SALTWATER FLIES KIT: RIO's Signature Bonefish Assortment is made up of 8 of our favorite patterns and sizes. Target bonefish on the wading in the flats or sight casting on the beach.
- INCLUDES 8 FLIES: 2 Banana Stand (Pink & Tan, Size 8), 2 Bone Doctor (Tan & Peach, Size 4), 2 Boney Foo Foo (Peach & Pearl/Pink, Size 6), and 2 Shot Glass (Tan & Pink, Size 8).
- SIGNATURE FLY KITS: As fish-crazed anglers who spend more than our fair share of time on the water, we’ve spent years twisting feathers and fur into patterns that work when nothing else will. Now we want to share these exclusive, RIO Signature patterns along with all the reliable, go-to patterns anglers count on.
- INNOVATIVE DESIGNS: Just like our lines, we make our flies with innovative designs, thousands of hours on-the-water research, exceptional attention to detail, and the finest materials.
- Mustad Signature Duratin Fly Hooks
- Monofilament Weed Guard
- Premium Materials
- Hand Tied by Professionals
- Mustad Signature Duratin Fly Hooks
- Monofilament Weed Guard
- Premium Materials
- Hand Tied by Professionals
- Mustad Signature Duratin Fly Hooks
- Monofilament Weed Guard
- Premium Materials
- Hand Tied by Professionals
The Ultimate Bonefish Fly Buying Guide
Bonefish are fast, silvery fish. They live in shallow, warm water. Anglers call them the “ghosts of the flats.” Catching them requires the right fly. This guide helps you choose the best bonefish flies. A good fly means a better chance at landing your prize.
Key Features to Look For
When you look at a bonefish fly, check these things first. These features make a fly successful.
- Profile and Shape: Bonefish eat small crabs and shrimp. Your fly needs to look like one of those natural meals. A slim, realistic profile works best.
- Color: Color matters a lot in clear water. Common successful colors are tan, white, light pink, and olive. Always match the color of the bottom. White works well over sand. Tan works over mixed bottoms.
- Weight: Bonefish flies must sink quickly but not too fast. A lightly weighted fly lets you cast far. It also sinks gently, which fish prefer. Heavy flies sink too fast and scare the fish.
- Movement (Action): The fly needs movement when you strip the line. Tails made of synthetic fibers or rubber legs provide good action in the water.
Important Materials in Bonefish Flies
The materials used decide how the fly looks and swims. Quality materials last longer and look more natural.
Tying Materials
- Hooks: Use strong, corrosion-resistant hooks. Saltwater requires stainless steel or high-quality, chemically sharpened hooks. A strong hook prevents breaking when a big bonefish runs.
- Body/Wing Materials: Synthetic materials like Nylon, EP Fibers, or Craft Fur are popular. They imitate the texture of shrimp well. Natural materials like certain types of deer hair can also be good but might absorb water.
- Eyes: Dumbbell eyes or bead chain eyes add needed weight. They also help the fly sink correctly. Make sure the eyes are securely attached.
Factors That Improve or Reduce Quality
The quality of the tie greatly affects your success. Poorly tied flies fall apart quickly.
Improving Quality
- Durable Cement: Good fly tiers use strong head cement on the knots. This stops the materials from unraveling after one fish or after casting many times.
- Neatness: A clean fly looks more like real food. Too much glue or messy materials reduce the fly’s effectiveness.
- Proper Sinking Rate: Flies weighted just right swim naturally. The weight must match the fly’s size.
Reducing Quality
- Rusting Hooks: Cheap hooks rust fast in saltwater. Never use freshwater hooks for bonefishing.
- Flimsy Thread: If the thread breaks easily, the fly will fall apart during the fight.
- Oversized Profiles: Flies that are too big look unnatural. Bonefish often refuse large imitations.
User Experience and Use Cases
How you use the fly changes what type you should buy. Consider where and how you fish.
Shallow Water Flats (The “Slam” Zone)
When the water is very shallow (a few inches deep), you need a very light fly. Use patterns like the Squimp or the Gotcha. These sink slowly. You must cast accurately to a sighted fish.
Deeper Flats or Tides
If the water is deeper (one to three feet), you need slightly more weight. Patterns with small bead chain eyes work well here. They get down to the feeding zone faster without diving straight to the bottom.
The Retrieve
Bonefish flies are usually stripped slowly. Use short, quick pulls. The fly should dart like a real shrimp trying to escape. If the fish bumps the fly and doesn’t eat it, try pausing your retrieve. A slight pause can trigger the strike.
10 Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Bonefish Flies
Q: What is the best all-around bonefish fly color?
A: Tan or light brown is often the best starting point. It blends well with many bottom types.
Q: How many different types of flies do I really need?
A: Most anglers carry three main patterns in three colors: a crab imitation, a shrimp imitation, and a general-purpose fly. Bring at least 12 total flies.
Q: Should I use bead chain eyes or dumbbell eyes?
A: Dumbbell eyes are usually preferred for bonefish. They often ride hook-point up better, which reduces snags and improves hook-ups.
Q: Are expensive bonefish flies worth the extra cost?
A: Yes, often they are. Better materials mean better action and durability against saltwater corrosion and strong fish.
Q: What hook size is standard for bonefish?
A: Most bonefish flies use hook sizes ranging from 4 to 8. Size 6 is a very common, versatile size.
Q: How do I keep my flies from getting destroyed by saltwater?
A: Rinse your flies thoroughly in fresh water after every fishing trip. Let them dry completely before storing them.
Q: Do bonefish eat flies that look exactly like crabs?
A: They eat crab patterns (like the Merkin or the Avalon), but they often prefer flies that look like the local shrimp, which are faster moving.
Q: What is “flashing” on a fly?
A: Flashing refers to shiny materials, like small strips of Mylar. Some anglers avoid too much flash because clear water bonefish can be spooky.
Q: When should I use a white fly?
A: White is best used over very light sand or when the sun is bright overhead. It offers a high contrast silhouette.
Q: How heavy should my fly be for a 10 mph wind?
A: In wind, you need a slightly heavier fly, perhaps one size heavier in hook size or one with heavier eyes, to punch through the wind during the cast.